What’s Happened to In-House Print?

When the digital advertising boom of the early naughts threatened to kill off many-a–beloved paperback titles, ongoing speculation around the dwindling future of fashion paper was driven into high-gear frenzy. The consequently not-so-glossy glossy market, thinned of its former breadth and glory, proved itself essential for the genesis of a new medium: the in-house print.

In and of itself, in-house print presented an enticing proposition for fashion brands - a wholly tangible form to regularly captivate and engage dedicated recipients. For those willing to take on industry mainstay titles that had survived the advertising crunch, no expense was spared; with cover shoots and celebrity features to boot. 

However, not all in-house fashion titles have endured their growing pains and the persistent difficulty to re-invent creatively, instead being forced to transition from paper into increasingly digital-first formats.

Porter Issue 20, Summer 2017

Net-A-Porter, having previously established itself as an undeniable trendsetter in the digital fashion space, was also one of the first to launch an in-house paper. Porter, the bi-monthly publication for “incredible women”, ceremoniously positioned itself as the first physical extension of founder Natalie Massenet’s digital empire in early 2014 (having first lured EIC Lucy Yeomans from her role at British Harper’s Bazaar).

Porter‘s print edition has reportedly produced significant engagement amongst captivated readers when used in combination with the online retailer’s mobile app, but will be slowly phased out in favor of fully digital content. Strategically, Porter and several other in-house titles have met similar fates (Goop Magazine or Uniqlo LifeWear Magazine, anyone?), continuing instead in consolidation with other digital brand offerings.

SSense debuted its eponymous in-house title in 2019, which set a “natural extension” for the retailer “to celebrate diverse collaborators and narratives”. Contrary to traditional in-house prints, physical copies of the title are made available exclusively to select members of the SSENSE community. 

SSENSE SS20

Having so far forgone the digital transition undergone by Porter years after the fact (particularly after the COVID-19 pandemic), the SSense title is undoubtedly one to note. In its run of only a few issues, it has seemingly already proven valuable to the brand and its customers, somewhat uniquely extending the SSense edit in tangible form to key tastemakers.

Betting on in-house print is a stalwart hedging for brands in communicating long-term commitment to their identity, dependent on resources needed to find an effective editorial footing. Physical incarnations of fashion branding have an incredible potential to convey strong messaging to customers, but come at a high price for brands willing to foot the bill.