Taking A Look Into Jürgen Teller’s Towering Photographic Archive
What are the greatest stereotypes you have heard about Germans? Are they about how they are always punctual, have the famous unlimited speed Autobahn, and are practical people? As a German, it has become quite important to me to show how we also have a lust for life, have exquisite taste in art and wine, see the beauty of life and most importantly, are fun! We are more than just the country with the Autobahn. We are a country full of raw, young talented people with a strong artistic vein. So naturally, this led me to wonder, which German photographer embodies the hidden artistic gem of my country best? Among thousands of artists, one stood out to me the most: Jürgen Tellers. One of the greatest talents in fashion photography that the world has seen.
Mostly known for his contemporary photography, Jürgen Tellers was born in Erlangen, Germany in 1964. He later on moved to Munich, where he studied at the Bayerische Staatslehranstalt für Photographie, and soon after moved to London where his work in fashion commenced. Since then, he has collaborated with nameless designers, and shot impeccable candids of legendary personas– Kate Moss, Kurt Cobain, Victoria Beckham, to name a few.
“Jürgen Teller first offered reality and substance to the status-driven world of fashion photography in the late Eighties.”
Teller is known for his exceptional skill of finding a balance between plain commercialism and unlimited creativity. His method is based on pushing his subjects out of their comfort zone with atypical set-ups, and thereby, capturing raw yet complex images. Often, he uses overexposed lighting in order to get a washed-out look– plain but interesting backgrounds, as well as “candid” poses in his work. This is characteristic of Teller’s work, and can be especially seen in his pieces of Kurt Cobain, while he was touring with his famous rock band, Nirvana.
In 1994, Teller then shot his first ever Vogue cover of Kate Moss, who he continued to photograph over the years –marking the beginning of his strong and long career in fashion. Nonetheless, critics argue that his most famous piece– probably due to his visible distinct and provocative signature photography style– is of Kristen McMenamy, where she has written “Versace” across her chest with red lipstick.
Jürgen Teller has created numerous campaigns, projects, and exhibitions; many of which became quite famous and even controversial. Below, I attached my three favourite projects of Teller that really portray the individualism of his work, display his development over the years, and showcase his signature human approach to photography. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
Project Go-Sees
A photographic journal of every model that had visited his studio for a casting between May 1998 and 1999. The countless portraits of the models that are merely canvases for designers, explore the concept of identity.
Marc Jacobs Spring Campaign 2004 – Louis XV
The star of this campaign was 65-year-old actress Charlotte Rampling. The shoot was at the Crillon Hotel in Paris, which is known for its extravagant flare. The shoot was spread over six months and produced a 28-image narrative known as Louis XV, embracing lust, arrogance, and nudity.
Vivienne Westwood and Teller in Africa 2011
In 2011 Teller photographed Vivienne Westwood’s charity work and the production of her ethical fashion Africa collection in Africa. Jurgen Teller is a German artist that is mostly known for his exceptional skills of finding a balance between plain commercialism and unlimited creativity. In today’s article, we explore his magnificent work, as well as the process that goes behind it. Link in bio.
