A Guide to 48 Hours in Warsaw
Warsaw used to be called the Paris of the East, but unfortunately, after the wars and occupation that my nation went through in the XX century, for a long time, it was difficult to recognize these words in the Polish capital.
Nowadays, after many renovations, you can walk in the old town and see the beauty and the design from so many years ago, but what I love the most about Warsaw is that after years of being occupied, now it’s finding its own style. Warsaw isn’t scared anymore to recognize the evolution of the city and now I really feel that it’s starting to fulfill its full potential.
Having lived there for 19 years before I left for Bocconi and coming back to it now I see a different soul of the quickly changing city.
For this city guide, I want to show you the best Warsaw has to offer in 48 hours. Prepare yourself for a lot of walking!
DAY 1
Going out for breakfast became a very important part of social life in Warsaw in the last few years. Every time I go back it’s an absolute must with my friends.
Let’s begin with Być Może (Bagatela 14, 00-585). A casual place where you can get the best chałka (sweeter, milky bread) in town.
They have a good selection of salty breakfast meals and some amazing sweet options as well. My personal favorite is French toast with fresh fruit. They also offer some high-quality, organic products, bread, fruit and veggies, tea, etc. to buy as a type of delicatessen.
After this feast, I recommend walking over to Łazienki Królewskie, which used to be the king’s garden and still looks very royal.
In May, there are amazing lilac trees that bloom all over the gardens and smell heavenly. There is also a palace on water which is where the last King of Poland used to host elaborate celebrations of artists from all around Europe. All around the garden, there are galleries and buildings which make up a wonderful space to walk around, sit and ponder or even eat an elegant dinner. One of my favorite buildings in the garden is the Oranżeria (New Orangery), where orange trees and exotic plants used to take shelter from the harsh Polish weather. Nowadays it hosts a wonderful collection of classical sculptures of pagan deities.
The walk and sightseeing of the buildings should take you a few hours, which should leave you pretty hungry. Not to worry, one of my favorite restaurants is right nearby. Qchnia Artystyczna (Jazdów 2, 00-467) serves amazing Polish fusion cuisine, which is light and perfect for the summer months. They also have a terrace with an unbeatable view of the remaining part of the park. The restaurant itself is located in a palace, which also hosts cafes and a contemporary art gallery.
They introduced me to my favorite tea of all time - fresh mint with lilac syrup and lemon. A must-try are also all of their dishes with asparagus!
If you want to stop for some after lunch coffee or tea I would recommend the extravagant option of going to the top of Vitkac (Bracka 9, 00-501), a luxury department store. The cafe on the roof has an amazing view and great interior design. It also serves a mean espresso and offers a range of great tea infusions. If you’re looking for high-end shopping, you can go downstairs after you’re done and take a look at a few floors of top fashion brands.
From there I would propose to keep with the shopping trail. Right across the street from Vitkac you can go visit Mysia 3 (Mysia 3, 00-496). It hosts a collection of concept stores with Polish brands, for you, your home, skincare, shoes, everything you could imagine, all within a great design of the building itself.
You should also take the time to walk over to Mokotowska Street. It’s a home to a collection of Polish boutiques. One of the things I really started appreciating about Polish brands is the unique design. If I buy something in Warsaw, no one in LA will wear the same things as me, I love it!
They are locally sourced and the quality is amazing. For jewellery go to Jagg Jewels or Anka Krystyniak. For clothes go to 303 Avenue, The Odder Side, Lui Store, Le Brand. For bags, Chylak - my favorite Polish designer. We also started paying attention to skincare, if you want to try some go to Bogna Skin or Raw.
After all this shopping I always like to get something sweet. You can find the best sweets, cakes and desserts at Słodki…Słony (Mokotowska 45, 00-551) or Lukullus (Mokotowska 52A, 00-543). All in a five minute walking distance!
After your shopping spree you might get hungry. If you feel like exploring more traditional Polish cuisine you should book a table at Wódka na Widelcu (Plac Trzech Krzyży 18, 00-499). Their tartar goes amazing with their champagne. They have great seating outside and the best Polish dishes!
If you’re feeling like more European cuisine you should definitely go to Ale Wino (Mokotowska 48, 00-543). They have an amazing selection of wines and interesting and fresh food combinations. The place is intimate and unique in it’s design, perfect for a date or dinner with your close friends.
After you have some wine you have to check out the best cocktail bars in Warsaw! We love a small, intimate bar in the basement, but we also have some iconic spots! Try Wozownia (Nowy Świat 1, 00-496), which is a bit hidden and located inside a gate. They have signature cocktails and great outside seating. It’s a great place for hanging out with all your friends and if you want to bump into someone you know.
From there walk across the street to a unique place. Four bars on four corners of a building courtyard. There is beer, wine, cocktails and pizza if you’re up for a midnight snack! The whole courtyard is one big party which goes on until the morning.
DAY 2
Once you wake up from the best night of dancing under the stars you should head out for a good breakfast to cure the hangover and re-charge you for the day. One of my favorite areas of Warsaw is Powiśle. It’s located right next to the riverbank and has fresh design and a special vibe.
My favorite breakfast place there is SAM (Lipowa 7a, 00-313). You should try the eggs with asparagus! They also have a great adjacent space with a small grocery store, amazing bread and baguettes and custom made muesli!
Right next to that we’ve got the University of Warsaw Library (Dobra 56/66, 00-312). While I’m not gonna force you to study on your weekend off, you should check out the garden on the roof of the library. Not only does it have a great view on the riverbank, but also the design of the garden itself is so unique.
From there walk over to the Museum of Modern Art (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, 00-124). They have a temporary building right on the riverbank and organize great exhibitions while also being very active and outspoken in all sociopolitical matters of Poland.
Check out Elektrownia Powiśle as well! It’s a food court combined with shopping and a whole floor of beauty services, such as great massages, facials, hairdressers, etc. It’s all located in a renovated electricity plant, which looks amazing! Red brick, industrial interiors and great old-school design, everything is styled as it should be.
Eat lunch at Dyletanci. One of the best restaurants in town. While a full dinner might be hurtful for your wallet, they have great lunch specials which are priced very reasonably. Try their wine selection as well, it’s exquisite.
Take a taxi to POLIN, the Museum of the History of Polish Jews. Designed by Rainer Mahlamäki and Ilmari Lahdelma it serves as one of the biggest museums in Europe about Jewish history. Polin in the museum's English name means either "Poland" or "rest here" and relates to a legend about the arrival of the first Jews to Poland. The core exhibition takes you on a journey from the 10th century to the Post War years.
They also host amazing temporary exhibitions, so be on the look out for them!
Now I want you to take a taxi back to the strict city center to DESA Unicum, the biggest auction house in Eastern and Central Europe, located in a custom-made contemporary glass building, which looks like a cube.
It hosts amazing exhibitions of the auctioned art and rarely misses in terms of the collected pieces. If you can, I recommend going to an auction as well, just for the experience. We have new records coming in every few months, so each one is guaranteed to be exciting.
Once it’s time for dinner, go across the street to Le Braci. A high–end Italian restaurant with absolutely amazing food and wine selection. Designed in a new Art-Deco wave in Warsaw, the service and interiors are top notch.
